GoreDean Linens

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A Message from Anichini

Dec 072010 Sue Dollenmaier for the Anichini Blog, The Genuine Article.

Most people agree that linen was the original woven textile. Remains of primitive linen production have been found that date back 36,000 years. The piece in this picture (insert) is said to be 7,000 years old, and the oldest piece of textile to exist. Visit any major museum and you will find ancient linen garments. The point is: linen has a long life span.

Before the wide use of cotton, most clothing was made from linen. In my mind, it remains one of the best and most versatile textiles for clothing and home use.

Why did linen fall out of favor? I have my own theories. One is that linen was more expensive than cotton. Another is the introduction of polyester in the 1950’s. Prior to that, we washed and ironed our clothing and home textiles. Suddenly, you could throw everything into a washing machine and dryer, and everything came out ‘ready-to wear. We developed a collective rejection of wrinkles! Linen wrinkled. Wrinkles were not “modern”.

In my mind, we gave up a lot when polyester was introduced.

1. We moved away from natural fibers to ones that were produced with petroleum based products.

2. We lost the knowledge of how to clean and care for natural fibers. This “tribal knowledge” was handed down over the centuries and was lost in 2 generations. One of the most common questions we are asked is “can I wash this?” We have forgotten that EVERYTHING was once washed! There was no drip dry and there were no dry cleaners.

3. The top on my list: we gave up the human satisfaction that comes from living with and wearing natural fibers. Natural fibers do not hold odors, stains can be removed more easily, they are last longer, BUT they take more care. The last 50 years has been dedicated to doing things faster but not better.

Back to linen. The manufacturing of raw cotton into cotton yarn is a tremendous global pollution problem. The production uses enormous amounts of water. The chemicals employed for most cotton production poisons the land and water supplies. Linen production, on the other hand, is relatively low tech. In addition, linen is naturally anti microbial, which means that it does not “sour” like cotton. If you have a linen towel and a cotton towel in your bathroom, the linen one will smell fresh for a very long time. The same goes for linen clothing. Linen is particularly well suited for hot and humid climates.

Linen has a very long life span. It is more difficult to tear or rip than cotton.

However, we are experiencing a shift in recent times.

It started in fashion with 100% linen fabrics and a deconstructed point of view which turned seams inside out to expose fibers and threads as something to be admired. The modern consumer became attracted to the aesthetic of natural fibers and inherent wrinkling, or at the very least, a “non artificially smooth” look. The result is that Anichini is receiving more and more requests for linen sheeting, linen towels and linen decorative fabrics. Fortunately, I have long been a fan of linen, we have many offerings in our collection.

Iconic items made from linen:
The Shroud of Turin
The Tablecloth at the Last Supper
Great Gatsby’s Trousers
King Tut’s entombment wrapping
Alexander the Great’s laminated linen armor

A message from Anichini

Nov 182010  By Sue Dollemnmaier for her Anichini Blog, The Genuine Article

I have been waiting to communicate these thoughts for a very long time. Before House and Garden shut its lovely doors, Dominique Browning and I conversed together about  publishing this piece. But now is the age of the blog. So rather than using a print magazine, I will push this forward for all to read and contemplate.

The discussion of thread count in the bedding world is largely specious. The term “thread count” was originally developed in the USA to differentiate percale from muslin. A thread count is the measurement of threads per square inch. A thread count  that was 200 and over was considered to be a percale. Anything under 200 was considered to be muslin. This nomenclature was never meant to apply to sateens, jaquards and other European manufactured sheeting which are not constructed using the simple “over and under” weave of a percale. For example, to achieve a sateen, threads are “floated” on the surface.

When European sheeting made a serious entrance into the marketplace 25 years ago, Americans continued to ask this question because the packaging was not marked with thread counts, as this standard  of measurement had no meaning in Europe. Europeans measured some qualities by grams per square centimeters. Lest I state the obvious, they do not use inches in Europe.

Within a short time, the meme had been created. “What is the thread count? What is the thread count?” chanted the eager luxury consumers. It was meant to project an intelligent question; a question that reflected the knowledge of the consumer. After all, European sheeting was far more expensive than American percale.  And if American percale listed thread counts, then so should the rest of the world.

It snowballed. European manufacturers were forced into declaring thread counts. Anichini was included in this charade, which I refer to as “The Emperor with No Threads” Companies were afraid NOT to give the consumer a response, so they loosely created an answer to a question that should never have been asked in the first place.

We at Anichini resisted for a very long time; attempting to educate the public. But eventually, even we caved in. Every time I had to answer this question and neglected to give this full explanation, I would experience an internal cringe.  However, in all these years, we never marked thread counts on any packaging other than percales.

Once that started, the race for higher and higher thread counts took off. Because, after all, higher had to be better! Higher thread counts on packaging became a marketing tool. For the record, in weaving typical long staple cotton yarns, you cannot achieve much over 500 thread counts.  However, if you use twisted yarns or double yarns, you simply multiply times 2 and you get 600, 800, etc. In my opinion, if you have a sheet with a 1000 thread count, you may as well wear a raincoat to bed.  The weaving is so dense, it does not breathe. VERY recently, I have seen super high thread count sheets created with yarns meant for clothing.  They are beautiful and very pricey. But this is an exception to the rule.

A textile lover should be able to touch the fabric and feel it’s “hand”. How does it feel to you?  In reality, the quality of the yarn or threads is more important than any superficially applied description.

You may prefer one hand and not another. For instance, you may like linen sheets in the summer and cotton in winter. Linen has a natural coolness to the hand. You may prefer silk sheets or mist lino sheets (50 cotton/50 linen). None of this personal attraction to a specific hand has anything to do with thread count.

There are fabulous sheets produced with low thread counts. Cotton voile is a perfect example; linen is another.

A loose analogy could be purchasing wine.  Do you buy a bottle of wine because it has a higher alcohol content?  No! You know that a Riesling has a different alcohol content than a Pinot Noir, but you purchase the wine because you like the taste.  In the same way that different seasons suggest a different wine, the same is true with sheeting.

Bottom line: Have faith in your sensibilities. Open the package.  Remove the sheet and feel it.  Look at your hand through it.  Is it sheer enough to your liking?  Is it heavy enough to your liking? Is it smooth enough? Is it crisp enough?  Is the sewing perfect.  Are the stitches small and even? Are the hems even? There should be no puckering. Think of it in the way you would buy good clothing!

MONOGRAM STYLES for Legacy Linens

Cher does Anichini…. and so can you

Iam a Buddhist,” says Cher with characteristic self-deprecation, “who should always be in after-school detention.”
Indeed. And it is precisely that irrepressible mix of spirituality and spunk that makes the singer-actress’s spectacular new duplex, perched high above Los Angeles, as gloriously original as its owner.
“My houses,” she muses, “are passions.” They are also decorative barometers of the current state of her never-boring, ever-expanding consciousness. “I’ve played around with Buddhism for years,” continues the actress, a devotee of the American Buddhist nun Pema Chödrön (“a genius in Sheldon Leonard’s body,” she quips). “As corny as it sounds, the soul of the universe, everything that I need, I can find in its practice.”
So it wasn’t surprising when, snapping up two floors and 4,000 square feet in one of Los Angeles’ hottest buildings, Cher turned to friend and interior designer Martyn Lawrence-Bullard to help her conjure up “something ethnic, spicy and romantic”—albeit in creams, ivories, whites and buttery beiges. “Though I loved collecting Gothic and can spend hours drawing with every shade of Pantone pen, I prefer a neutral palette, especially in my bedrooms, because the colors are so easy to live with.”

cher bed

ANICHINI and CHER!

Cher, a long time Anichini aficionado, just completed the interior of her new home in West Hollywood. Working with her designer, Martyn Lawrence- Bullard, she chose some of the most rare and beautiful products in our collection. She was drawn to the ethereal muga silk collection; it is found in every room, but dominates the bedroom.  Muga silk has as long and ancient history associated with its natural golden luminescence.

Sex in the City- can be yours thru GoreDean

Carrie and Big’s bedroom is a striking blend of pattern and texture. The custom-headboard is covered in fabric by Kravet and pops against the neutral Rococo Stripe wallpaper by by Cole & Son from Lee Jofa. The bedding is from Anichini. All available through GoreDean

Photographer: Craig Blankenhorn

Samantha’s Bed:  Palladio 200tc white/black, Bamboo white coverlet and shams, Verona natural/bone throw and Lucrezia truffle shams


Carrie’s bed:  Lorraine 500tc white sheeting, Waves platinum coverlet and shams, and Taffeta aurora borealis pillows

Charlotte’s bed:  Lucrezia ivory sheeting, Siddhartha dark eucalyptus blue coverlet and shams, Kyoto beige/ivory throw and Rupia eucalyptus blue pillows

Tablecloths Shapes, Sizes and the fuss factor

Tablecloths date back to Midevel Times when people travelled from village to village and castle to castle.  During these trips food items were carefully wrapped in cloth.  Upon arriving at their destination, they would place the cloth on the table, unfold and prepare for their meal.  The unfolded cloth now served as a napkin were the persons dinning would clean their hands and mouths during the meal.  At the end of the meal, the remaining food items were re-wrapped in the same cloth. 

Tablecloths today are used as a covering spread over a dining table before the tableware is set.  Tablecloths serve to dress a table, and for protection from scratches. 

Whether you use a tablecloth or a placemat, it is the style and texture that determine its formality.

Tablecloths can be made of cotton, silk, linen and cotton/polyester blends. Cotton, Linen, and Silk tablecloths are machine washable, and require ironing, while cotton/polyester blends are easy-care (machine washable/no iron).  Cotton, Linen, and Silk tablecloths are typically used for more formal settings while cotton/polyester blends are used for casual everyday dining.

Tablecloths Shapes, Which One Is The Right One?

  • Round table:        use a round or square tablecloth.
  • Round table w/ leaves:        use an oval tablecloth.
  • Square table:        use a square tablecloth.
  • Square or Rectangular table with leaves:     use an oblong tablecloth
  • Oval table:         use an oval or oblong tablecloth.

**When using an oval tablecloth, a template of the table must be followed to assure a proper fit.  You can either have a professional template made OR do what I do…..Lay a newspaper (or brown paper) accross the table until theentire top is covered. Tape the paer together aloung the seams to create one solid piece of paper. Cut along the edge of the table  (it doesn’t have to be perfect). Then roll the paer up end to end and secure with a rubber band or tape.  Sendit to us or bring it in.  We’ll do the rest.

Tablecloth Sizes, What Size Do I Need? 

Your tablecloth should be the proper size for the table on which it will be used. Here is an easy guide for selecting the proper cloth for your table.

  • Measure your table as you intend to use it (with our without leaves).
  • Add 20 inches (for a 10inch drop) and 30 inches (for a 15inch drop) to both the length and width. This will give you a drop of 15inches (if you added all around.  A 10 to 15 inch drop all round is recommended.
If you find yourself caught without the table measurements, don’t panic. 
The following chart is based on how many people you intend to seat at your table.
IF YOUR TABLE IS OBLONG  
and the size is…. your cloth should be approx…
Small – Seats 4

Standard-Seats 6

Extended by 1 Leaf-Seats 8-10

Extended by 2 Leaves-Seats 10-12

70″ Long

80″-90″ Long

102″-108″ Long

124″-126″ Long

 

IF YOUR TABLE IS OVAL  
and the size is…. your cloth should be approx…
Small-Seats 4

Standard-Seats 6

1 Leaf-Seats 8-10

2 Leaves-Seats 10-12

3 Leaves-Seats 12-14

70″ Long

80″-90″ Long

102″-108″ Long

124″-126″ Long

144″ Long

 

IF YOUR TABLE IS ROUND  
and the size is…. your cloth should be approx…
Small-Seats2-4

Large-Seats 6-8

1 Leaf-Seats 4-6

2 Leaves-Seats 6-8

3 Leaves-Seat 10-12

70″-72″ Round

86″-90″ Round

80″-90″ Long

102″-108″ Long

124″-126″ Long

 

With all your fine linens always read the care instructions prior to laundering.

Take Care

The Truth About Laundering Sheets and Towels

15 01 2009

sheet

THIS WILL SAVE YOU MONEY:

Most of us are ruining our sheets and towels.  Our basic instinct is wash them often and use extra detergent and lots of other things we buy because the promise of Fresh, Clean, White and Soft are all irresistable.  We also try and avoid mustiness by over drying. 

Natural cotton sheets, linen, bamboo and some blends are all waaaaay easier to care for than that.  So here is the skinny on sheets and towels.

towel

♦ Always read the care instructions – just in case you have bought the rare exception to these rules.

Cold and warm water in the wash cycle.

Cold water in the rinse cycle.

Do a second rinse if you have that option.    This gets rid of any excess soap and allergens.  It is excess soap usually that makes, sheets,    towels and clothing feel scratchy. 

Use a detergent that does NOT contain a fabric softener or bluing agent.  Fabric softeners are a no no.  They artificially “soften” by breaking down the fibers of the textile – shortening the life of the fabric.  They also coat the fibers which make them less absorbent and after awhile prohibits them from “breathing” which is the purpose of cotton, linen and bamboo.

Use 1/4 to 1/3 the recommended amount of detergent !!!

Do not use Chlorine Bleach.  Chlorine bleach has a devastating effect on sheets and towels. You may use a chlorine bleach which is marked as “Safe on Colors”.  You may use SHOUT or Gonzo.

Tumble Dry on the Low setting or Perma Press.  Over drying is the leading cause of rough towels and shrinking sheets.

Do not use drier sheets.  They have the same effect as fabric softeners and the same chemicals.

Remove sheets and towels immediately from the drier.  Smooth and Fold to avoid ironing.  If  linen sheets are very wrinkled, remove before the end of the cycle and let dry on top of a flat surface (like the bed).

♥ Hint:  If you have a monogram, iron it from the reverse side on to a terry cloth so that it stays three dimensional and does not flatten out over time.

♥Hint:  Always store linens in an open and airy place or in tissue – Never in plastic.

♥ Hint: Ladies, some lotions and soaps can act as bleach.  If you are using Retin A, clearasil or any lotion with benzoyl peroxide or alpha hydroxide; you should use only white towels and sheets.

♥Hint:  Sheets that have been put away for the winter can be refreshed with a quick cold rinse with a bit of white vinegar.

♥Hint:  If you suffer from allergies, try Bamboo sheeting  or Purity Organic sheeting   (www.goredean.com).

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Categories : Care Instructions, Helpful Info


Laundering Fine Linen

4 01 2009

 There has been a lot written in the last few years about “thread count” in sheets and the quality that it represents. You seldom read that thread counts differ country to country or that the type of thread used is more important than the number. So we will dispense with the subject and concentrate on how to care for linens that are an “ investment”. Everyone’s pocket book is defferent, but everyone knows the difference between linens that are worth taking care of and the ones you know will not be in your closet two years from now.

Good linens can last for thirty years with the proper handling. Thay can withstand childern, dogs and champagne in bed if they are cared for. However it is important to realize first how they are constructed and to know the difference between what should be expected to withstand wear and what will never be able to last beyond summer camp or a year in a college dorm.

Linens are constructed on a grid; horizontal threads and vertical threads. If the threads are pure cotton and not cotton peices, they should be able to withstand a great deal of wear.  If however, you cut into the grid to make a fitted bottom sheet, you cut dramatically the strength of the weave and the sheet will tear. So the first rule of sheeting: ALWAYS USE A FLAT BOTTOM SHEET.  And because stains and wear are usually sustained by the bottom sheet, I always recommend purchasing a second bottom sheet.  In a set that can cost into the hundreds and thousands of dollars, this is a good investment. If you can use sheets nicely for 30 years or pass them on to your children as an heirloom; you have actually saved yourself money.

The care of sheeting, however, is a bigger challenge than the expense. Though lesser quality sheets give us the freedom to go from dryer to bed, beautiful sheets from Leron, Anichini, Frette, and Gayle Warwick look their best when ironed. I have been called in to replace lovely sheets that the owner thought were dowdy, when all that was required was an iron for them to look as they did the day they came home.  Ironing sheets is a chore,  but for this excercise, let’s say it’s worth it.

TO LAUNDER SHEETING:

1.  Machine was in warm water, not hot.

2.  Wash in the gentle cycle.

3.  Use a mild detergent Do not use bleach, stain removers or detergents with a “bluing” agent or lightener. Always dilute your detergent or pour it into the automatic dispenser, never directly on the sheets.

4.   Fabric softeners are not necessary. Save the money.

5.  If you cannot air dry ( does anybody do that anymore?). Put your sheets on the lowest possible setting of the dryer. It is the dryer that causes the most damage to good linens. Remove the linens while they are still slightly damp and place them on a bed or rod. It is very damaging to repeatedly dry them in a dryer.  It breaks down the cotton and the fabric becomes dull and brittle.

6.  Try and leave the linens somewhere flat before pressing. It makes it so much easier to iron. Try and iron when the linens are slightly damp, if possible. And pressing from the underside of a pattern is better, just like clothing.

7. Store your linens in an airy place. Don’t place in plastic. Fold them simply and store.

8. If your sheeting has a monogram, iron it from the underside onto a terry cloth towel so that the monogram stays three dimensional and doesn’t flatten out over time.

Good luck! And remember that a cup of white vinegar in the rinse water will remove all soapy residue and leave your fabrics smelling better than any product on the market.

If you own expensive sheets and don’t want to launder them yourself, Anichini Fine Linens recommends BlancPlume 1-800-307-0229 for a professional water cleaning.  If you use a professional laundry service, copy these instructions and ask them to follow these guidelines. For any further help, feel free to comment on this site or contact us through www.goredean.com

Measure for success.

When purchasing bed, bath and table linens size matters!
The following charts outline standard sizes for mattresses and pillows

MATTRESS SIZES

Mattress Size
Width
Length
Twin
39 inches
75 inches
Twin X-Long Mattress
39 inches
80 inches
Full Mattress
54 inches
75 inches
Queen
60 inches
80 inches
King
78 inches
80 inches
California King
72 inches
84 inches

** When purchasing new bed linens always have your bed measurements handy, you will need to know the length, width, and depth of your mattress to ensure the proper fit. 

PILLOW SIZES

Pillow Size Width
Standard 20″ x 26″
Queen 20″ x 30″
King 20″ x 36″
Euro 26″ x 26″
Boudoir 12″ x 16″
Neckroll 6″ x 16

                                                         

NAPKIN SIZES

NAPKIN SIZE
Cocktail 6″ x 6″
Cocktail (to use folded in two) 6″ x 9″
Horde oeuvres 13″ x 13″
Lunch 18″ x 18″
Lunch 20″ x 20″
Dinner 22″ x 22″
Dinner 24″ x 24″
Buffet (to use on lap) 27″ x 27″

Napkin Folding by Quaker Lace

Napkins serve a practical purpose for most of us, but they can also be a very important part in the scene of a well-set table. Adding that special touch of decoration, napkins can add to the visual effects placed on the table such as centerpieces or other decorative objects. The following instructions will turn napkins into accessories:


SHELL

1. Fold square napkin in half 2. Accordion fold 2/3′s of the napkin

3. Fold pleated side flat

4. Fold in half upward

5. Fold corner down

 


PINWHEEL

1. Bring top and bottom edges to center leaving 1″ gap 2. Pleat sharply

3. Pinch center together, secure with ring

4. Fan

 


ROSE

1. Fold corners to center 2. Fold corners to center again

3. Repeat a 3rd time

4. Turn over and fold to center again

5. With pressure in center, pull first 4 petals from back, than 8 more, 12 points in all

 


IRIS

1. Fold napkin in half forming large triamgle 2. Bring bottom corners up to top point

3. Fold bottom to top

4. Fold same point down leaving 1″ up

5. Turn bottom point under to back

6. Turn right and left corners to back and tuck one into the other

7. Turn from points down-thn stand up

 


CANDLE

1. Fold in half to form large triangle 2. Turn up 1″ hem

3. Flip over

4. Roll up tightly, tuck corner into hem

 


BUFFET SERVER

1. Fold napkin twice to form square 2. Take 2 top layers and roll down half-way

3. Turn corners back

 


FAN

1. Pleat square napkin from top to bottom 2. Secure center with finger and fold in half

3. Place in glass and fan out top

 


BIRD OF PARADISE

1. Fold napkin in half, and repeat until quartered 2. With loose edges at bottom, fold in half, bottom to top

3. Turn corners down

4. Fold bottom tips under to back

5. Fold in half, lengthwise

6. Gripping tightly, pull edges up and arrange them

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